Day One - 7:00am: The day has arrived and I am extremely excited! This is probably one of the only things (apart from Christmas Day) that I don't mind getting up early for, and the time is necessary to get everything ready. After a quick shower, I make a large protein-filled breakfast that should hopefully get me through most of the day. I then pack the rucksack that will help me survive for the next two days (equipment list included at the end).
Day One - 8:30am: Meet the group outside my accomodation. We walked in a group of 4 which was the perfect number in my opinion. We then walked to catch the bus that would take us to the subway station, to then catch the subway to Nagoya JR Station.
Day One - 10:00am: After a few small obstacles with the tickets (it was around
¥3000 more expensive than we had thought it would be) we caught the Shinkansen from Nagoya to Mishima. This transport system has a reputation for being one of the fastest and most efficient in the world and it certainly lived up to that expectation. It was FAST!
Day One - 12:00pm: We arrived at Mishima station with the intention of catching a bus from there to Fuji! Sadly technology let us down again, as the bus we had planned for (which the website said ran EVERYDAY from July 1st onwards) was not running that day. We therefore had to pay an additional ¥2200 to catch a bus from Mishima to Kawaguchiko.
Day One - 13:30pm: Kawaguchiko is one of the most famous starting points for climbers of Fuji-san and runs regular buses from the bus station to Fuji-Subaru Line 5th Station. We were able to buy a last minute round trip ticket to the 5th station for ¥2000 each. This, the bus from Mishima and the extra money on the Shinkansen ticket was a lot more money to get to Fuji than we had planned for but was well worth it in the end!
Day One - 15:00pm: We arrived at Fuji-Subaru Line 5th Station after a terrifying bus ride. The 5th Station is more than halfway up the mountain at 2,305m and as such there is a hell of a lot of cloud. Driving through that at 50mph along winding mountain roads was a little nerve-racking. Fuji-Subara 5th Station is the last point at which any point of normality exists, there are toilets, shops, restaurants etc. This is also the place where all the coaches drop off and the point at which the majority of climbers start their ascent so it is full of Gai-jin! We spent around an hour here doing various last minute things.We ate a bowl of ramen, had a quick cup of coffee, went to the toilet and stocked up on 'oxygen' and water.
Day One - 16:30pm: We began our trek up the side of one of the highest mountains in the world. We started off in good spirits and at a fantastic pace. The estimation times written on all the signposts (for example 'Mt. Fuji summit - 6.7km, 385 minutes') were broad generalisations probably taking into account that people of all shapes, sizes and ages climb Fuji. In all cases we were quicker than the estimations, some considerably so.
Day One - approx 18:00pm: Reached the 7th station and paused for a rest. The cloud had started to clear on the way up, giving us a breathtaking view of the landscape, providing a fantastic photo opportunity and serving as motivation to power on and climb higher. However as we neared the 7th station the cloud once more rolled in to the point of near-zero visibility and a lot of moisture in the air. We took some water here, I bought a snickers bar at an extortionate rate (about £2.60), and we sampled the canned oxygen (Useless). We then pressed on with the intention of reaching the summit before sunset, as the pace was still good, we were making excellent progress and it would be an amazing experience.
Day One - approx 19:00pm: The gradient from the 7th station onwards suddenly gets a hell of a lot steeper, and the path a little more treacherous. Suffice to say we regrettably did not make it for the sunset, and somewhere around the 8th station we were now beginning to get a little tired after climbing around 1000m over approximately 4km. With darkness setting in it was time to light our torches and make the final push for our accomodation at 8.5 Station.
Day One - approx 19:00pm: The gradient from the 7th station onwards suddenly gets a hell of a lot steeper, and the path a little more treacherous. Suffice to say we regrettably did not make it for the sunset, and somewhere around the 8th station we were now beginning to get a little tired after climbing around 1000m over approximately 4km. With darkness setting in it was time to light our torches and make the final push for our accomodation at 8.5 Station.
Day One - 20:00pm: We finally arrived at the hut we would be staying at for the night (or some of it at least). After checking in and paying the fee (¥6500, including a meal [¥5500 yen without]) we took off our boots, placed our bags on our beds and settled down to dinner. After walking for what seemed like a lifetime, the humble meal provided seemed like a banquet. A cup of hot tea, and a bento (lunch box) consiting of rice, a hamburger, potato and a salad tasted delicious! Extra drinks were available for an additional price, including beer. As soon as dinner was finished we collapsed in to bed and enjoyed a well deserved rest.
Day Two - 02:00am: What an AWFUL nights sleep. The huts on the top of Fuji, although providing a well needed place to relax and rest, are akin to concentration camps. Within the sleeping rooms there are just row upon row of futons with one average sized hut typically sleeping 200 sweaty people. Two pillows per one duvet cover so if you walk in an odd number be prepared to share a bed with a stranger. On one side I had one of our group attempting to snuggle up to my back, and on the other an unknown caucasian man elbowing me in the head everytime he turned over. Top that off with a midnight toilet trip in freezing temperatures and all in all it was not the best night i've ever spent. However we're up, dressed and ready to climb. After piling on a total of 5 extra layers we set off for the summit.
Day Two - 02:30am: Climbing a mountain at night, especially a famous mountain in climbing season where the traditional way to do it is at night, is an experience I will never forget. There is no longer such a thing as pace, there is no room to overtake and doing so would be irresponsible and dangerous. Instead you climb, step by step, in a long line of climbers like a moonlit Conga (minus the music). If you should glance upwards you can see a snaking line of torches and headlamps meandering its way to the top. A breathtaking experience (although that could have been the altitude).
Day Two - 03:00am: We reached the summit and made our way through the crowd of climbers already waiting to a spot that suited us on a peak further round the crater. We settled down to wait as the sunrise wasn't due for another hour or so. This was the perfect time for breakfast, so we tucked in to the bags of mixed fruit and nuts that I generously had bought and shared out. I also sneakily ate the bar of snickers I had bought yesterday, at that price there was no way I was sharing that! Even though I had 3 layers on my bottom half, 5 Layers on my top half, gloves and everything tucked in to everything else it was still freezing! I should have packed more layers.
Day Two - 04:30am: Camera's at the ready, the surrounding landscape had been getting increasingly lighter since we ascended the summit and now the first tip of the red disk appeared in the distance. The sunrise viewed from such an elevated level is a surreal experience, and one which truly allows you to see the justification for the nickname "land of the rising sun". To begin with a red disk rose slowly out of the mist from what I assumed was the horizon, however as the full circle appeared the top of the circle turned bright orange and the sun itself (in the form we recognise it) started to ascend. Seeing the process repeated, firstly with a glowing red ball, and then with the ultra-bright orange sphere, was a majaestic moment and one that will stay with me for life. After blinding myself by looking for the full 6 minutes (and yes there is a video) we took some stereotypical pictures and then began the descent to beat the rush. I am still perplexed as to why there were two sunrises, so if any of our readers are inclined towards science, please comment and explain. In the meantime enjoy one of them
Day Two - 05:00am: We had though the climb up was treacherous in places, but descending the same path is much more so as a steep step up is easier than one down, and also using our hands to help wasn't really an option. Careful foot placement and stepping slightly sideways saved the day. If the worse came to the worst, there was around a hell of a lot of people below us to break the fall. We reached 8.5 Station for the second time, quickly removed a few layers as even at the early time of the morning it was beginning to get warm, and purchased a few drinks. I should have gone to the toilet here, but opted not to and regretted it for another 2 hours. We decided to climb down through the bulldozer paths that dissect fuji and run from the top to the bottom (or bottom to top depending on your perspective) as these would provide a change of scenery from the path we had ascended yesterday.
Day Two - 05:00am: We had though the climb up was treacherous in places, but descending the same path is much more so as a steep step up is easier than one down, and also using our hands to help wasn't really an option. Careful foot placement and stepping slightly sideways saved the day. If the worse came to the worst, there was around a hell of a lot of people below us to break the fall. We reached 8.5 Station for the second time, quickly removed a few layers as even at the early time of the morning it was beginning to get warm, and purchased a few drinks. I should have gone to the toilet here, but opted not to and regretted it for another 2 hours. We decided to climb down through the bulldozer paths that dissect fuji and run from the top to the bottom (or bottom to top depending on your perspective) as these would provide a change of scenery from the path we had ascended yesterday.
Day Two - 06:00am: The bulldozer paths, although very quick, are boring. They simply zig zag there way monotously down the mountainside with the same view and not so many people to interact with. In addition to this they are more difficult to walk on (especially descending) as they are composed of gravel and thus not a firm surface. Keeping balance is challenging, and slowing down is even more so, resulting in two stumbles myself and an impressive barrel roll from another of our group. A few cuts and scrapes later and we had reached the 7th Station emergency toilets. Here I took a much needed pit stop and we proceeded onwards. Having been up since 2am, and with the weather being so bright and glorious, it felt like it should be around noon already; it was going to be a long day.
Day Two - 07:00am: We reached the 6th Station, where the two paths converge once more and continued to our final destination of Fuji-Subaru 5th Station. We were once more surrounded by civilisation and exchanged 'Good Mornings' with the people that we passed. They looked so optimistic and happy, so full of energy and naive. We looked the opposite, drained of energy and sleep deprived. The roles of yesterday had been reversed when we were the energetic optimistic adventurers, commenting on the dejected looks of the descenders.
Day Two - 08:00am: With a last burst of energy, and a profound feeling of triumph, we strolled back in to 5th Station. We congratulated each other, and wallowed in our own feelings of success. We had achieved what we set out to do, a considerable feat and one to be proud of. Now to sit and wait for our bus, to begin the long sleep-filled journey home. Fuji was a magnificent experience and one that I will fondly remember for as long as I live. I may come back in the future, but there is a Japanese Proverb that says 'a wise man climbs Fuji once, a fool does so twice.' We shall see.
Equipment:
Rucksack (preferably with chest and stomach straps to help support back)
Walking boots (or sensible walking shoes, with ankle support)
WaterProof Trousers
WaterProof Jacket
(These two proved unecessary as the weather was glorious, but it is ALWAYS better to be safe than sorry, as would have been dangerous without if it did rain)
Thermals; Long legged bottoms and undershirt.
2 x T-shirt (one short sleeved, one long sleeved)
Trousers (NOT denim)
Walking socks (or two pairs of thin socks)
First Aid Kit (Plasters, Dressing, Antiseptic Cream, Pain Relief Gel)
Water (At least 2 Litres)
Food
Gloves (Hat and scarf also advisable if climbing at night)
Torch (would recommend a head light but handheld is better than nothing)
Phone (in case of emergency)
Sun Cream
Money (in case of emergency)
Equipment:
Rucksack (preferably with chest and stomach straps to help support back)
Walking boots (or sensible walking shoes, with ankle support)
WaterProof Trousers
WaterProof Jacket
(These two proved unecessary as the weather was glorious, but it is ALWAYS better to be safe than sorry, as would have been dangerous without if it did rain)
Thermals; Long legged bottoms and undershirt.
2 x T-shirt (one short sleeved, one long sleeved)
Trousers (NOT denim)
Walking socks (or two pairs of thin socks)
First Aid Kit (Plasters, Dressing, Antiseptic Cream, Pain Relief Gel)
Water (At least 2 Litres)
Food
Gloves (Hat and scarf also advisable if climbing at night)
Torch (would recommend a head light but handheld is better than nothing)
Phone (in case of emergency)
Sun Cream
Money (in case of emergency)
CAMERA !!
Thanks for reading, and if it inspires you to climb or helps you to do so... GOOD LUCK!
Simon Birkmyre
Mt Fuji - Shizuoka, Japan
No comments:
Post a Comment